Snow's BBQ

Up until the middle of ths year, I would guess that most people that hadn't driven through Lexington, Texas had never heard of the town. I live about 50 miles away in Austin and I hadn't heard of it. Then around June, Texas Monthly came out with its Best of BBQ edition naming Snow's BBQ of Lexington #1. Then a couple of weeks ago, The New Yorker profiled Snow's in a 4 page article.

If anything ranks close to the sweet sugar of love, then for me it's gotta be food. And of those foods I love, a tender slice of brisket cut fatty from the fatty side may be #1. A good bite of brisket is like toro tuna sashimi or a chocolate chip cookie frsh out of the oven with a glass of whole milk.Simply said, it can be sublime, close to a religious experience. This is why I enjoy eating at quality bbq joints, something that definitely abounds in the Hill County. Until last weekend, I felt Smitty's had the best brisket, both in the best single bite of brisket ever and in consistency of the product (being each bite was as good as the last). For me the litmus test for a good bbq joint is their bbq, so I don't pay a lot of attention to the other stuff. That being said, the consensus of my bbq eating buddies has been that Smitty's also has the best sausage and Kruez's has the best ribs. Lockhart is the mecca of Texas bbq.

Snows. Snow's BBQ is in Lexington, Texas, about 50 miles due east of Austin. Leington is a ranching town of about 1,500 people. The town was sut down the Saturday we went out there save for Snow's, the people selling honey out of their mini-van parked across the street from Snow's, and a cattle auction down the street from Snow's. The weather that Saturday was near perfect, a mild Texas December day, clear blue skies and temperature in the mid-60s.

Snow's is how a bbq joint should be. It's partially surrounded by grain elevators. There are a bunch of wooden picnic tables outside near the bbq pits (the owner of Snow's, Kerry Bexley, built the pits himself). The actual store is probably less than 1,000 sq. ft., consisting of the food counter and 5 or 6 tables. The pit master, Tootsie Tomanetz, is something out of a tall tale. You couldn't make her up.

The food. There was nothing wrong with Snow's BBQ. The brisket was the best I've ever had, tender, marbled, and moist (if you were lazy to epic proportions, you wouldn't even have to chew the brisket it was so tender and moist)(As I'm writing this I'm honestly salivating). There were bites so good that I'd nod off for a second. Also, each cut of brisket was just as good as any other cut. This is truly notable because there are many times when I've had brisket and one cut was great and another tough, dry, overcooked. Bottom line, Snow's brisket was really good. I'd drive 7 hours round trip for this brisket (I'm gonna rate the food in this post on how far I'd drive to eat it).

The pork ribs were tasty. They were different in that the meat on Snow's ribs seemed closer to the meat on a pork chop in texture and flavor than other ribs I've had. I'd drive 30 to 45 minutes each way for these ribs.

The sausage was good too. Loosely packed. Not too greasy. Good flavor. I wouldn't go too far out of my for these links though, maybe 15 minutes each way (then again I'm not a real sausage guy).

The pork shoulder was the only let down of the day. I had high expectations for the pork shoulder. It was by no means bad, it just didn't have the flavor of which pork shoulder is capable. Next time at Snow's, I won't waste space in my stomach by putting pork shoulder in it. I'd drive 10 minutes for this pork shoulder as long as it was being given away.

The sides I ate were potato salad and cole slaw. The potato salad was fine, nothing to write home about. The slaw was actually damn good (I mean as good as cabbage can be when compared next to top notch meat). It was light, flavorful, and crunchy. I'd drive a couple of minutes out of my way for the slaw.

All in all, Snow's is legit and lives up to its billing. The Snow's team was real pleasant, the setting was picturesque, and the food was across the board good. Definitely worth the trip.